Bistecca con Patate Fritte

This is a take on a classic bistro dish. You would find this all over France as well as Italy. The part of this dish that is truly Italian is the making of the pan sauce. The French tend to make sauces like this over the course of hours, yet this one can be done in the time that the steak is resting. In addition to the delicious steak, I have included a recipe for fried potatoes. These have to be one of my most guilty pleasures. I don't have them often, but there is nothing quite as good as homemade fries done right.

TT = to taste

For steak:
1 Ribeye, prefereably bone-in, 16-22oz
TT Fleur de Sel or Kosher Salt
TT Coarse cracked black pepper
olive oil or grape seed oil or canola oil

Method Day 2:
Pull steak out and let rest at room temp for 30-60 minutes
Use a cast iron pan if you have one. If not, no big deal, a stianless steel saute pan will work too
season the steak with salt and pepper
Het the pan until it starts to smoke
pour in 2-3T of oil
place steak in hot pan laying it away from you so you don't splash oil on yourself
Allow to sear until nice and dark brown on one side (3-5 minutes)
once seared flip steak over and transfer to preheated 350F oven and cook until medium rare (around 125F). (maybe 5 minutes in the oven)
Once done pull steak out and transfer to plate
allow to rest for 15 minutes

For Potatoes:
4 lg. Russet or Idaho Potatoes
2qts Peanut Oil
TT Fleur de Sel or kosher salt
TT black pepper

Method Day 1:
At 8 AM Peel all the potatoes, and place in cold water and refrigerate
At 8 PM Cut the potatoes into batonnet or a little smaller and place in a new batch of cold water and refrigerate overnight

Method Day 2:
Do this first part while raw steak is sitting out at room temp
1st Part) Heat the oil in a deep dutch oven or thick bottom pan that can take the heat of the oil
DO NOT FILL THE POT MORE THAN HALF WAY OR YOU COULD HAVE A BOIL OVER... NOT GOOD!!!
Use a candy thermometer to judge the temp of the oil
heat oil to 300F
Once oil is ready drop potatoes in batches so you don't overcrowd them and cook for 3-4 minutes.
Pull potatoes out and place them on a towel lined plate or sheet pan to cool
2nd Part) Once steak is resting, raise the oil temp to 375F
drop the potatoes in and cook until nice and brown
pull them out and place them on a towel
immediately season them with salt and pepper

For the Red Wine & Rosemary Reduction:
1 cup red wine
2 cups veal or beef stock, homemade or low sodium
2 sprigs rosemary
1 T black peppercorns
1 oz Veal demi glace
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Method Day 2:
While steak is resting, use the same pan you cooked the steak in
place it on the stove top and the garlic, rosemary & peppercorns and saute on high until garlic gets golden brown(it wont take long)
add the wine and reduce for 1 minute, break up any bits that stick to the pan from the steak cooking
add the stock and the peppercorns and reduce until thickens to sauce consistency.
season with a little salt if needed
strain the sauce into a small bowl
and keep warm

For Aioli:
1 garlic clove, grated on microplane
1 egg yolk
1/2 t red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
TT salt
TT black pepper

Method Day 2:
make while the raw steak is sitting out at room temperature
Combine garlic, egg yolk & vinegar in mixing bowl
whisk until yolk starts to become frothy
while whisking vigorously, slowly pour in the olive oil in a steady stream.
careful not to pour to fast or the aioli will break
whisk until until all the oil is incorporated
it should be thick like mayonaise
season with salt and pepper
refrigerate until ready to use

For Finishing Day 2:
Assemble the dish
On a platter, place the rested steak down, the fried potatoes & the sauces. The Reduction for the steak and the aioli for the potatoes
Serve Immediately

Quaglie al' Speck con Insalata di Pere, Radicchio e Aceto Balsamico

This is a very interesting dish that takes an Italian thought process on food, yet prepares it in a way that is more Native American. I take succulent quails and wrap them in smoky speck and then roast them on cedar planks. What you're left with is an intoxicating aroma that tantilizes your nostrils and makes you not want to wait for the food to be done. I have paired them with a seasonal bitter-sweet salad component that has a little drizzle of 25 year balsamic vinegar on it. Quite delectable!!!

TT = to taste

For quail:
4 semi boneless quails (substitute squab or cornish hens - cooking times would change though)
4 sprigs of thyme
4 sage leaves
4 large slices of speck (smoked prosciutto, you could substitute prosciutto)
TT salt
TT black pepper
2 cedar planks

Method:
place cedar planks in water for a minimum of 3 hours, preferably more if you can
let quails stand at room temp for a half hour
once ready preheat the oven to 450F
once oven is heated, place the planks in the oven for about 5-10 minutes to heat up
take the quails and disperse the herbs evenly on top of the breast meat
season quails with salt and pepper
wrap one piece of speck around each quail and drizzle the quails with a little olive oil
once planks have heated, pull them out and brush them with a little olive oil to keep the quail from sticking
place 2 quails on each wood plank and place them in the oven
roast them until the breast meat is medium (around 15 minutes)
once done pull them out and allow to rest for 10 minutes
transfer to individual plates along with salad
serve immediately (once serving you can drizzle the quail and salad with a little good extra virgin olive oil if you like).

For salad:
2 pears, peeled, cored & thinly sliced
1 head radicchio, cut in half, cored & julienne
6T good extra virgin olive oil
2T 25 year balsamic vinegar
TT salt
TT pepper

Method:
While quail is roasting, make the salad
In a mixing bowl combine the radicchio, pears, olive oil & vinegar and toss together
season with salt and pepper to taste and toss together
taste for seasoning and adjust accordinly
set aside until quail is done

Cannelloni di Cervo

This is a great way to use up some venison that is leftover from the hunting season other than making sausage with it. This is a very rich and complex ragu recipe that is mixed with homemade ricotta and parmigiano reggiano to make a delicious filling for this rolled stuffed pasta. This is a little more traditional for something you'd see in Northern Italian cooking yet takes a Southern Italian twist by using pasta as opposed to using crepes. This serves as a great appetizer for a special winter occasion or holiday meal. This is a time consuming process so feel free to do it over a couple of days to save you time. The ragu and ricotta can be made the day before and the pasta and finishing touches can be done before your guests arrive. All you will have to do come party time is pop it in the oven.

TT = to taste

For Pasta:
1# or 3 1/2 cups Semolina Flour
5 Lg. Eggs, room temp
3T extra virgin olive oil
1T salt

Method - Day 2:

combine all ingredients for pasta together
knead for a few minutes, then wrap in plastic and set aside for half hour
unwrap dough and cut into 4 pieces
wrap pieces not being used so they don't get dried out
Using a manual pasta roller, start on largest setting - #1
knead pasta through machine ten times
then roll out 3 times on largest setting - #1
then drop down 2 settings to #3, and run through 3 times
then drop down 2 more to second thinnest setting - #5
run through #5 one time, use flour as needed when rolling through the pasta machine, but try not to add too much or dough will get dry
cut dough with a knife into 5" squares
Bring 6 qts of water to a boil
add 2T of salt
drop pasta in batches and cook until pasta floats
once floating, immediately plunge sheets into ice water
once cold pull sheets out of ice water and pat dry
continue to finishing steps

For Ricotta Cheese:
1/2 Gallon Whole Milk
1 pint Buttermilk
1 1/4 cups Heavy Cream
pinch of salt

Method - Day 1:
Combine all ingredients in sauce pan on low heat and bring to boil
once boiling turn off heat and allow to rest for 15-20 minutes
pour through cheesecloth lined strainer and let rest for 20 minutes
transfer to airtight container and refrigerate over night(if you want, you can do entire process in one day)

For Ragu:
2T extra virgin olive oil
1 cup Pancetta cut into lardons or matchsticks
3# Venison Roast
2 red onions, diced
3 carrots (for store-bought) cut into 1/4" thick discs
4 garlic cloves thinly sliced
1 6oz can of tomato paste
3 cups red wine (Malbec, Barolo, Barbaresco)
3 cups Venison Stock (sub Veal stock, or beef stock, preferably homemade)
1 2.5oz pkg. Veal demi glace
1/2 cup Dark Chocolate (preferably Valrhona)
TT coarse salt (fleur de sel or kosher)
TT coarse black pepper (tellicherry)
1 sprig rosemary, leaves removed and chopped
3 sprigs thyme, leaves removed and chopped
1 Sachet (cheesecloth wrapped & tied with following ingredients inside):
* 2 sprigs rosemary
* 4 sprigs thyme
* 1 cinnamon stick
* 10 Juniper Berries
* 6 Cloves

Method for ragu - Day 1:
pull venison roast out, and let rest at room temp for 1 hour
In dutch oven, heat the olive oil on low heat and add the pancetta
pre heat oven to 250-275F
cook until nice and crispy about 10-15 minutes
remove pancetta and turn heat up to high
season roast all over with salt and pepper
add roast to pan and sear all over so meat is dark brown on all sides
remove roast from pan and lower heat to medium low
add onions and saute reduced in volume by 3/4 stirring occasionally about 20-30 minutes (onions should be nice and browned but not burnt)
add the carrots and garlic and saute for 3-5 minutes
add the tomato paste and cook for 10 minutes until paste has browned
return the roast and the pancetta to the dutch oven
add the wine, stock, demi glace & sachet and bring to a boil
once boiling cover and put into the oven
roast for 3 hours turning meat venison roast over every hour to ensure even cooking
after 3 hours remove from oven
pull out the venison roast and cut into bite size pieces
pour liquid into gravy separator, keeping all the vegetables, pancetta and sachet still in the dutch oven
add venison back to dutch oven and pour the cooking liquid minus the fat, back into the dutch oven
turn stove on to med-low and simmer uncovered until liquid has reduced until almost fully absorbed into meat and vegetables stir occasionally to prevent bottom from burning(about 45 minutes-1 hour)
turn off the heat, remove sachet, and stir in the dark chocolate and the chopped rosemary and thyme
allow to cool completely
transfer to air tight container and refrigerate overnight(if you want, you can do entire process in one day)

For finishing:
3 cups grated parmigiano reggiano, plus extra
1 stick unsalted butter
1/4 cup or less cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)

Method - Day 2:
In a mixing bowl, combine the ragu with the ricotta and 1 1/2 cups of the grated parmigiano reggiano
Mix together until homogenous
place around 1/3 - 1/2 cup of the filling onto each cooked and cooled pasta square
Roll up to form the classic cannelloni shape
take stick of butter and lightly grease pyrex dishes
place the cannelloni in the pyrex dishes
take the remaining butter and break apart with your fingers over the top of all the cannelloni
take the remaining 1 1/2 cups of parmigiano reggiano and sprinkle that over the cannelloni (cover with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator until guests arrive)
pre heat oven to 450F
once oven is ready, unwrap the plastic and place the cannelloni in the oven and cook for about 20-30 minutes or until the cannelloni are nice and browned and crispy on the top
remove from the oven and grate some parmigiano reggiano over the top, sprinkle with some more of the rosemary and thyme if you like
place the cocoa powder in a strainer and dust the tops of the cannelloni with just the lightest amount of the cocoa. (Don't put on too much or it will over power the flavor of the rest of the dish).
scoop cannelloni out of pyrex and onto individual plates or serving platter
serve immediately

I like this with a glass of complex malbec or a glass of barolo

Pollo Arrosto con Verdure Invernale

This is another classic Italian recipe that shows what real Italian cooking is all about. Using a few simple ingredients and letting the farmer's market dictate what you are cooking instead of a recipe. In this recipe I have used brussel sprouts, collard greens, onions & garlic. As I said before, feel free to use your own favorite vegetables as long as they are in season and look good. Italians consider it their birth right to have the best ingredients possible. So if you go to the market or store and the brussel sprouts or the collard greens don't look fresh, get something else that looks good. Don't ever feel like you have to be a slave to the recipe.

TT = to taste

For the Chicken:
4 - 4 1/4# Free Range Farm Raised Chicken
TT Fleur de Sel or Kosher Salt
TT Coarse Ground Black Pepper

For the Contorno:
1# Brussel Sprouts, cut in half
1 Lg. Bunch Collard Greens, ribs removed and diced, leaves cut into 3"x3" pieces
1 Lg. Red Onion, julienne
1 Garlic Bulb, cut in half
1 cup Dry White Wine
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
4 sprigs fresh thyme
TT Salt
TT black pepper

Method:
Remove Giblets and Reserve
Season chicken cavity and all over skin with salt and pepper and truss
Let rest at room temp for 1 hour
Pre heat oven to 250F
Heat 6T of Olive Oil in Large Saute Pan or Paella Pan over high heat
Add chicken and brown all over until nice and golden brown
remove chicken from pan and set aside then lower heat to med-low
add the giblets and saute until golden brown
add add garlic cut side down and cook until cloves are golden brown (about 3 minutes)
remove garlic and set aside
add onions, brussel sprouts and collard greens and saute for 5 minutes
Add the herbs and toss through
season to taste with salt and pepper
add wine and cook for 1 minute scarping up any brown bit that stuck to pan
*If using paella pan, add garlic back to pan and use collard greens and onions as a bed for the chicken. Then place in the pre heated oven
*If using a saute and roasting pan, remove the vegetables from saute pan and add to roasting pan. Again use the collard greens and onions as a bed for chicken. Then place in pre heated oven.
Roast until meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 160F
Remove from oven and allow chicken to rest for 10-15 minutes
Remove and discard giblets... or save for making stock
transfer vegetables and chicken to a platter
serve immediately

Pappardelle con Tartufi e Burro Nocciola

This is a simple seasonal Italian recipe that is a true classic. Wide ribbon noodles with truffles. The rich aroma of the truffles marries wonderfully with the brown butter and the pappardelle. If you can't find the fresh truffles you can always use the canned truffles, truffle oil, or even mushrooms.

TT = to taste

For Pasta:
1# or 3 1/2 cups Semolina Flour (substitute AP Flour)
5 lg. eggs, room temp
3T Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1T fine sea salt

Method:
combine all ingredients for pasta together
knead for a few minutes, then wrap in plastic and set aside for half hour
unwrap dough and cut into 4 pieces
wrap pieces not being used so they don't get dried out
Using a manual pasta roller, start on largest setting - #1
knead pasta through machine ten times
then roll out 3 times on largest setting - #1
then drop down 2 settings to #3, and run through 3 times
then drop down 2 more to second thinnest setting - #5
run through #5 one time, use flour as needed when rolling through the pasta machine, but try not to add too much or dough will get dry
take finished pasta sheet and cut with fluted pastry cutter or a knife into strips 1"x8"
place on parchment lined sheet tray dusted with flour
repeat process with remaining dough

For Condimento:
1 large black truffle, shaved (you can use white truffles, summer truffles, truffle oil, or mushrooms as a substitute)
1 stick of unsalted butter
6 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 cup grated parmigiano reggiano cheese, plus extra for garnish
TT salt
TT black pepper

Method:
bring 6qts of water to a boil
add 2T of sea salt
heat butter in large non stick saute pan until just browned, not black!!!
add the thyme and turn off the heat
drop pasta in batches and cook until it floats
add the cooked pasta with a little bit of the pasta water(helps loosen the sauce if needed) to the brown butter and toss together
Repeat process with remaining pasta
Once all pasta is cooked off add the cheese, the shaved truffle and the salt and pepper if needed
transfer to individual plates and garnish with some more truffle, cheese and thyme
serve immediately

Amaretti

Here is a recipe for the delicious Amaretti cookies of Northern Italy. Most prominent in Lombardia & Veneto, these delicious almond flavored cookies can be used in a number of ways. You can eat them as is. You can put them on an ice cream sundae, or one of my favorite and classic ways of eating them, is chopped up on top of pumpkin ravioli.


Amaretti Cookies

Makes 15 cookies

1 ¼ c blanched peeled almonds
1 ½ t cornstarch
½ T confectioners sugar
2 egg whites room temp
Pinch of salt
1/3 c plus 2T granulated sugar
1.5 T Amaretto
½ c. turbinado sugar for sprinkling

Method:
Combine almonds, cornstarch, salt & confectioners sugar in food processor
Pulse until finely ground
In mixing bowl whip egg whites till frothy
Whip while slowly adding sugar until stiff peaks form
Whisk in amaretto
Fold almond mixture into egg whites being careful not to deflate the whites
Place 1 heaping tablespoon per cookie on a parchment lined sheet pan
Top cookies liberally with Turbinado sugar
Bake cookies in 300F oven for 15 minutes until slightly brown and starting to crack
Drop temperature to 200F
Open oven door for a minute so oven temperature drops
Close over door and continue to bake for another 25-30 minutes until cookies are crispy all over
Remove from oven and allow cookies to cool slightly
Transfer cookies to rack to allow to cool completely
Once cool, transfer cookies to airtight container or serve immediately

Anatra Arrosto con Melagrana e Tarrasaco

Duck has to be one of my favorite proteins. It has the delicious crispy skin and divine fat. Lets not forget about the fact that it has such sweet & flavorful meat. It puts me in a happy place every time I think of this succulent bird. In this recipe, I have taken a nice seasonal approach by combining the duck with bitter dandelion greens and the sweet and sour pomegranate seeds. They both play off so well and add a lightness to the super rich duck meat. Duck can be a little tricky to make, but when done right, there are few things better.

TT= to taste

For Duck:
5# Duck, giblets removed
1 Blood Orange, cut in half
1 Bulb garlic
2 sprigs rosemary
4 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs sage
1 cup Grappa
TT Fleur de Sel or Kosher Salt
TT Coarse ground black pepper

Method:
Using finger reach between the breast meat and the skin and separate as best as you can
use a sharp knife and prick the skin liberally all over the duck especially around the breasts and legs and thighs
cut off the excess fat around the cavity and the neck
stuff the cavity with the oranges, herbs, 1/4 of the pomegranate seeds, salt & pepper
truss the duck
season the outside of the skin liberally with salt and let sit at room temp for 1 hour
Preheat oven to 425F
Bring 4 qts of water to a boil, hold duck by the legs and briefly dip the duck in the boiling water. Try to get the legs dipped as well. This will help tighten the skin
Pat duck dry
Season with a touch more salt, then the black pepper
Place breast side up in roasting pan
Add the neck and the grappa to the roasting pan
Put in the oven and roast for 30 minutes(15-20 minutes in when some fat has rendered, add the garlic bulb.)
Flip duck over so breast side is down and roast for 30 minutes
Flip duck over again and turn on the broiler and cook until skin is deep brown color (about 10-15 minutes). Skin should be nice and crispy
Remove duck from roasting pan and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes
Remove the string from the duck

For Contorno:
1 Pomegranate, seeded (cut in half, invert over bowl, and beat with a wooden spoon to remove the seeds)
1 lg. Bunch Dandelion Greens, washed and cut into 3" pieces (sub swiss chard, rainbow chard, kale, escarole)
1/2 cup white wine
TT salt
TT pepper
1 sprigs rosemary
2 sprigs thyme

Method:
After the duck has finished roasting, make the contorno
In large saute pan take 4T of the rendered duck fat and heat over medium
Squeeze the garlic out of the roasted bulb
add the garlic from the bulb to the saute pan along with the herbs
add the greens and saute for 1 minute
add the wine and cook for another two minutes
season the greens with salt and pepper
transfer the greens, and the duck to a platter and garnish with the pomegranate seeds
Serve immediately